Remembering why I Travel to surf............

 

 I think I travel to surf to be with friends and to create a camaraderie or relationship that is hard to come by in this "hussle and bussle" world we live in.We get a chance to let go of the pressures our society puts on us, work, family, friends, and what or whoever we allow access into our microcosm.To Surf a place or wave I never had seen before or ever could have thought of, each one distinctive in it's own way. 

 To eat a food I never thought of as being food, or see the Good Ole' USA from another mans view. One not so positive and having compassion over what they have struggled through.

To meet people I can instantly say "he's my friend" and mean it. Good people with servants hearts. Sure many are paid to do the job, but come on who couldn't love "Chancho", "Monkey", and "Mucho"

Where else could you find how much can your body take until it yields to the constraints of its physical boundaries.

  In the end I take it as God letting me loose to enjoy all that He has made. And even then still have some dessert.